![]() ![]() ![]() Then a real-life tableau of mourners formed onstage (arranged by famed choreographer Blanca Li), among them many of the iconic models who have brought their spirit to the Gaultier runways through the years, dressed in upcycled pieces from the designer’s archive. The collection opened with a sequence from photographer William Klein’s 1966 fashion-world spoof Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? featuring a fashion shoot starring Peggy Moffitt and other model luminaries of the age staged as a funeral. He famously dressed Madonna in a conical bra for her 1990 Blonde Ambition Tour although he debuted the fashion look on his fall 1984 runway, he had first experimented with it on his childhood teddy bear (he used newsprint at the time), as revealed in the playful opening sequence of his 2018 cabaret, Fashion Freak Show, at Paris’s fabled Folies Bergère-a popular success here and perhaps a hint at a future career.Īs Gaultier promised, he took the ideas that he first explored on a shoestring budget and amplified them with all the technical wonders for which his remarkable haute couture ateliers are famed-and this is a designer steeped in couture, having worked alongside Pierre Cardin at the tender age of 18. He has put men in skirts and turned the corset from a symbol of the oppressed woman to that of the woman (or man) who is absolutely in control. So I was taking things like jeans and camouflage and doing funny things with them-and now I did that with my couture!” As Gaultier explained backstage of those anarchic early collections, “I was recycling things, because at the beginning I had no money.
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